The ruins of Leon Viejo (Old Leon) are home to the original city of Leon, with the ‘new’ city situated some 41kms to the west.
Located close to the western shoreline of Lake Managua (aka Lake Xolotlán), Leon Viejo was founded in June 1524 by Spanish conquistador, Francisco Hernandez de Cordoba.
While Cordoba is often referred to as the founding father of Spanish, colonial Nicaragua (the country’s currency is still named after him), like many of his contemporaries he was a cruel and ruthless leader, leaving a trail of death pretty much everywhere he went.
Although the majority of his victims came from the native population, he also managed to make countless enemies amongst his fellow colonists, so it was no surprise when he was executed, by beheading, in Old Leon’s Plaza Mayor in 1526.
While the city’s lakeside location clearly made sense (Managua, Nicaragua’s modern day capital city is located on the same lake), Leon Viejo’s proximity to Momotombo Volcano was clearly a risk.
The region was prone to frequent volcanic activity which in turn led to earthquakes, the most severe of which took place in 1594 & 1610.
Although neither earthquake was catastrophic, the damage to Leon Viejo from the 1610 event was serious enough to convince its inhabitants to up-sticks and move to today’s current location.
Interestingly, although the inhabitants decided to move to a new location, what is known from old records is that this move took place over time, with inhabitants sometimes returning to Leon Viejo to plunder original homes, churches etc for building material.
Perhaps the most fascinating aspect of Leon Viejo is that, for many years, its exact location became something of a mystery. In fact, it wasn’t until 1967 that it was re-discovered after which, in 2000, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Visiting Leon Viejo / Old Leon
The site is located approximately 40 minutes’ drive from the modern city of Leon and can therefore be easily visited as a half day excursion.
However, (and, of course, our advice varies from client to client depending on their individual circumstances and overall plans), it usually makes more sense to visit the site enroute from Managua to Leon or, in the other direction perhaps, heading from Leon to Granada, Apoyo Lagoon etc.
While a visit to Leon Viejo is highly recommended, please note that this is no Pompei or Chichen Itza. The site is relatively small and excavations are limited so, without an experienced and knowledgeable guide, the whole experience might be slightly underwhelming.
On the plus side, unlike countless, more famous ruins around the world, Leon Viejo attracts very few visitors. Sharing the ruins with crowds of other people isn’t something that you will need to worry about.
Broadly speaking, one should allow approximately an hour to visit the site, the first 45 minutes with your guide explaining the history of the town and the stories behind the main buildings, followed by a further 15 minutes exploring on one’s own and soaking up the atmosphere.
While this can change at any time, the ruins are currently closed on a Monday and open every other day between 08.00 & 17.00.
For ideas as to how to incorporate a visit to Leon Viejo into an overall Nicaragua holiday, please head over to our Itineraries page.
